An alumnus from the IHM, Bangalore, Chef Mayank Tiwari combines modern culinary techniques with classic cooking. He has worked with many renowned chefs such as chef owner Antonio Carluccio and Rahul Akerkar. His last assignment was with the Olive Bar and Kitchen at ARC Mahalakshmi & Olive Bistro Pune, Hyderabad as the Chef De Cuisine. With a flair for modern European cooking, he has worked with restaurants including Smoke House Grill and Smoke House Deli, Bohemia-French Café and restaurant in Mumbai, Touch-Modern European Restaurant and Bar in Hyderabad, and Mobius, Delhi’s first stand alone round-the-clock European restaurant where the Chef was involved in pre-opening and opening of restaurants, responsible for all the culinary operations. Chef M has also been voted as the ‘Top 5 chefs under 30 to watch out for by What’s Hot, The Times of India, Fine Young Chef by Hindustan Times.
Dr Shubha Dharmana: Driven by Passion
Following her passion for Aesthetic Medicine and Dermatology, renowned Cosmetic Dermatologist and Hair Transplant Surgeon, Dr Shuba Dharmana, started the Dr Shuba Skin and Laser Clinic and Le’Jeune Medspa. She is also a member of The All India Medical Council and FICCI (Charity and Women Empowerment Organization). Registered under the General Medical Council, UK, Dr Shuba talks with Salon India about skin and hair treatments, her career and the future
Inspiration
I worked as a general practitioner in the United Kingdom, where I spent most of my years training and working in emergency departments and hospitals throughout the country. However, I had always been passionate about skin as well as beauty. Naturally, I found the field of anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation so fascinating that before I knew it, I had amassed knowledge in Aesthetic Medicine and Dermatology. I am glad my career took this path, as it is only here that I can indulge my passion for beauty and also treat and help people with skin ailments.
Education
After my MBBS degree from Andhra Medical College in Andhra Pradesh, where I had spent my early years, I moved to the UK, where I trained in Hospital Medicine and worked across different departments, such as Accident and Emergency, Obsterics and Gynaecology, Psychiatry and Geriatric Medicine. I finally chose General Practice, but found myself having an affinity towards treatments in skin problems and beauty and cosmetic corrections. Hence, I trained under many prominent aesthetic physicians and surgeons in procedures, such as Botox, fillers, peels, dermarollers, mesotherapy, laser procedures and liposuction. I did my post-graduate Diploma in Dermatology from the University of Cardiff, Wales in order to advance my career in Aesthetic Medicine. I also travelled to Poland where I trained and worked under one of Europe’s finest hair transplant surgeons.
Trends
I see a lot of awareness in the field of Aesthetic Medicine. This area was once predominantly for celebrities and the socialites, today I see most of the demand coming from the common man. The aspirationalists are lapping it up, be it laser hair removal, peels, Botox, et cetera.
People are moving away from plastic surgery and other invasive techniques as much as possible. Non-invasive cosmetic treatments are not only safe and effective, but also require little or no anesthesia and recovery period. There is lesser risk and the procedures are often done during the lunch time, allowig them to resume work immediately afterwards.
I also see more and more men coming up and asking for pigmentation removal, acne scar reduction and laser hair removal. Mothers are exposing their daughters to laser hair removal quite early, as we now have enough evidence on how safe these treatments are.
We have more knowledge about signs and symptoms of ageing, which allows us to correct the precise underlying problem so it is possible to lift, sculpt and shape an ageing face through Botox and fillers.
Latest technology
Most startups are small, having basic treatments such as skin peels and laser hair removal. Since I started, we have invested more into newer lasers and technologies like fractional laser machines, which treats acne scars, open pores and pitting. There is also the ultralipo machine that does body contouring and reduces localised areas of stubborn fat; a hydrafacial machine, which is a liquid skin polishing system suitable for people with oily skin, blackheads, whiteheads, open pores and many more. Our skin spas are designed in a luxury ambience with soft background music, aromatic candles and flowers. Competitive market leads you to do your branding exercise better, calling for better display panels with better printing techniques and advanced light technology.
Popular treatment
Hydrafacial is a popular form of treatment that provides an instantaneous hydrated radiant look. It is also healthy, as it has cleansing, exfoliation, extraction of blackheads, whiteheads, hydration and other steps customised as per your skin needs. At Le’Jeune Medspa, we offer high quality services with latest innovative new age skin treatments that leave you looking younger, radiant and rejuvenated.
Looking back
Even though I had a budding career in the United Kingdom after having lived and worked over there for 11 years, the decision to move to India was not easy. Apart from being a General Practitioner, I was also a Slimming and a Cosmetic Doctor, working for four other private cosmetic clinics. Additionally, I was also running my own clinic ‘Cosmesthetic’ in North London. My career graph in the UK was only climbing up so I felt intimidated when I arrived in India amidst all the competition.
Cosmetic dermatologists in India had already had a head start working on stars, celebrities, marketing and positioning themselves as star doctors. Big setups and cosmetic giants had multi-crore investments and they seemed to be hogging up all the clients with their huge marketing budgets.
I was not happy with what I had seen in the clinics. Some of these giants were allowing inexperienced doctors and even non-doctors to treat skin problems. I was appalled when I realised how many of my friends related incidents where these quacks were prescribing steroids for their acne and were performing skilled procedures, such as fillers and more with no prior experience.
My intention was not to compete with these giants, but to provide safe standards of care. It has given me a platform in this field from where I am able to make a difference. I write and blog about my treatments almost every day so people have an idea of what they must expect. My ultimate goal is to empower people to make their own judgements about which doctor they should go to and what they should seek. I am thankful to certain people for recognising my skills and rewarding me for all my hard work.
FutureÊplans
We have plans of expansion all over India with several dermatologist-run centres where the dermatologists are trained by me for a specific period of time, and where there are set protocols and standards of care so the client feels safe and satisfied. We are currently in the process of drawing up a plan and meeting investors, but the idea is to have these high-quality centres permeate every nook and corner of India.
Gold Leaf Spa Opens in Delhi
Gold Leaf spa has been envisaged imbibing all principles of Vastu-Shastra, the ancient Hindu science of Architecture. Its design ensures proper and correct flow of energy in the body when the treatment is on. Even the therapy rooms and massage beds are Vastu oriented to ensure proper opening of the chakras or energy centers in the body. All rooms in Gold Leaf Spa have individual climate control to ensure correct temperature for the body. Spread in 2,200 sq ft, the spa has been constructed in a span of eight months.
The spa has three single therapy, one couple, one vichy shower, foot massage station and a well equipped salon. The spa has given special attention to its staff training, who are groomed to deliver international standards of services.
The spa offers exclusive therapies like Calming Lava, Deep Tissue Bamboo massage, Royal Thai massage, Sunrise Body Rejuvenation, NEGair Massage, an anti-cellulite/ lymph drainage, Signature Gold Facial with real 24 Carat Gold !
Anu Mittal, Director, Gold Leaf Spa says, “Gold Leaf Spa aims to provide you with lifestyle improvement and health enhancement through professionally managed spa services. One can experience calmness during our unique massage treatments, transformative skincare and globally inspired therapies.”
Colour combination: Ivory and gold
Products: in-house 100 per cent natural products
Lightings: White lights, recessed cove lights and LED lights
Architect: Not disclosed
Flooring: Wooden finish in two tones
Website: www.goldleafspa.com
5th Element Spa in Banagalore
Body polishing is the common term used for what is called a body scrub. It is a skin exfoliation that gets rid of all the dead skin cells off your body, leaving it smoother and softer. It not only makes your skin feel good but enhances the natural flow of circulation and bodily fluids within your body. This creates an opportunity for fresh new cells to regenerate and leaves you looking and feeling fabulous. The scrubs you can choose from are sesame, coffee, oat and tamarind and sandalwood.
Duration: 30 minutes
Price: Rs1,780+taxes
Intimate Innovations
Not so long back, a sales representative carrying a big bag on her shoulder used to go door-to-door selling items to a group of women. At one common point, all the women would gather and buy the items from a limited choice of 15–20 options in basic colours like white, black and beige, with white being the favourite of all – and the item was bra. This is how women would buy lingerie a few years back in India. These sales representatives were the one-stop-shop for homemakers to buy all the intimate and necessity items, from lingerie to sanitary items or beauty knick-knacks. As far as men are concerned, they were loyal to home-stitched cotton underwear. However, with time the lingerie industry in India has covered a long way from its initial days. Today, we not only have major international brands but also MBOs and EBOs to cater to consumers’ demands.
The credit goes to awareness that has transformed the basic white innerwear to pretty looking lingerie. “Today, not only the Indian lingerie market but also the Indian consumer has evolved a lot. From the past six years, the consumer has become aware of their need in terms of design, style and functionality. In fact, they are ready to pay a higher price on a piece of lingerie – Rs. 1,000 on an average,” shares Arpita Ganesh, owner of Buttercups, a luxury lingerie boutique.
Over the years, consumers’ demand for intimatewear has shown major shifts. For instance, women stopped paying attention to the style and design of lingerie. Instead, they paid more attention to comfort and fit. Rahul Gupta, COO, Aviraté says: “Over the years, consumers have realised that innerwear, while being comfortable and perfectly fitting, can also be extremely stylish and fashionable. They are experimenting with different colours, cuts and designs.”
Rajnish Agarwal, President, Rupa & Co. comments: “The key factors influencing the choice of the consumers are comfort, price, brand and durability. Comfort plays a key role in the choice of the consumers followed by price and brand name.”
There are several factors behind this awareness and change. For instance, the dressing style of women has revamped and outwear influences one’s innerwear. Denim to skinny jeans, T-shirts, feminine tops, dresses, etc. are the basics of one’s wardrobe; and a single style of innerwear cannot suit all the outfits. This led to one of the prominent concepts of T-shirt bra because women need different types of lingerie that not only serve the purpose of functionality but also look beautiful and stylish. T-shirt bra is designed with limited or no use of raised seams, hooks or any other element that can be seen beneath the outer garment. It gives a tight and smooth fitting that compliments outfits like T-shirts, feminine tops and light fabric outfits.
On the other side, ethnicwear such as salwar-kameez and sari have become more glamorous. There are different kinds of innerwear that help avoid fashion faux pas. Hence, brands like Daisy Dee and VIP launched salwar-kameez bra. Another reason is women are entering the professional world that demands a range of formalwear. Women are also growing as health conscious individuals and opting for gym and fitness activities. This further popularises the demand of sports bras and briefs that suit the sporting activities.
Over the years, many innovations have taken place in the innerwear segment to fulfill the demands of Indian consumers. In 2010, celebrated lingerie brand Amanté was voted ‘Product of the Year’ under the lingerie category in the largest independent consumer survey carried across India. It was for the product Silicone Floss, which has a no show panty line and wrinkle-free fabric. These comfortable bikini briefs with silicon floss bonding around the legs and waist are designed to be worn under formalwear and well-fitted dresses. It avoids the panty line to highlight beneath the outfit of a woman. “The brands have evolved from giving basic products to seasonal trend products. Having worked with the best western brands as a company, we provide the Indian consumer with an international product at unmatched value. Our design houses across countries work to bring the international fashion trends to the consumers here,” says Vivek Mehta, CEO, MAS Brands India.
The contemporary influence and prominence of westernwear has also brought innovative concepts like stick-on bra and shapewear in India. Stick-on bras complement backless dresses where it is difficult to hide the strap.
The latest emerging category is shapewear garment that helps to hide flabs and plunging figure and make women appear curvier. It is an elaborate category that includes products such as high-waist briefs, long-leg briefs, tummy tucker corsets, cleavage enhancer bra, etc.
Hanes has recently launched a range of unique concealing Petals bra. It has petal-shaped reinforcements placed inside the bra cup at the apex to provide protection where you need it the most, without adding bulk. So, nothing shows through clothes.
Innovations in innerwear are not limited to women’s section only. Jockey introduced 3D innovations for men that take the meaning of comfort to a new level. The special innovative 8-way stretch fabric provides stretch allowing a fit that flatters one’s shape and provides superlative comfort throughout an active day. This unique 8-way stretch, which has 90 percent cotton and 10 percent spandex jersey fabric, was introduced for the first time in India. It allows body contouring and enhancing, and has chiselled fly construction on brief, midway and boxer brief; anatomically angled leg openings; tag-free T-shirts and high lift sleeve design on T-shirts for ease of movement. Last year Zoiro, Italian innerwear brand, launched denim intimates for men. The collection includes designer briefs and trunks for men and is inspired from men’s love for denim. Made with denim-like fabric, it has a digitally printed, belt-like thick elastic. The Zoiro denim intimates are knitted with spandex yarn that offers enough stretch to make one feel comfortable.
The Journey from Distribution to Retail
He believes that there is no thumb rule for the distribution business. Images Business of Fashion talks to Ajay Sharma, director, Upmarket Group, about his journey from distribution to retailing.
He believes that there is no thumb rule for the distribution business. The key to success is to keep evolving, be innovative and make new strategies everyday. Images Business of Fashion talks to Ajay Sharma, director, Upmarket Group, about his journey from distribution to retailing.
Simple living and high thinking is the term that best describes him. Quite enthusiastic while sharing his journey, Ajay Sharma said, “I started my distribution business with Pepe Jeans that came to India in 1991. We were the first who tied-up with the brand and started its distribution in North India. Gradually, we added Uttar Pradesh as its territory and that’s how ‘Upmarket’ was born.”
Share more about your company.
We started Upmarket Group in 1997 as a distribution and logistics company to identify new markets for established as well as emerging fashion brands in India. In the beginning, we were mainly looking after MBO operations and expansion of the brands. Gradually, we added a lot more fashion brands to our portfolio, and have launched many fashion labels in the country.
What are the brands you distribute?
We have the distribution rights of brands like Arrow, John Player, Adidas, GAS, UCB, Wills Lifestyle and a lot more. Today, the entire scenario of distribution business has changed. Brands have become more demanding and for a distributor it is getting difficult to handle more than two or three brands. Hence, we are working with Yishion group at present. We are looking after its expansion in the Indian market, not just as a distributor but are also taking charge of its complete retail business.
How many cities and retailers do you cater to in your region?
Currently, we have more than 100 shop-in-shops and MBOs. However of them, only 25 to 30 are active at the moment. In India, the MBO scenario is quite different. Based on the city’s potential, they are categorised as ‘A’, which are active throughout the year; ‘B’, which are seasonal; and ‘C’, which are active only once in a season. In UP, the top retailers are Bachoomal in Agra, Mark One in Kanpur and Bindals in Meerut and Ghaziabad.
What is your brand wise category split?
It is more related to the brand we are dealing with. For example, with Pepe Jeans we have its denim and casual wear, with Arrow we are into semi-formal and sportswear, and with Adidas we are only doing sportswear.
What are the top selling categories in your region?
I would say denim because when we started in 2005 there was no other denim brand apart from Wrangler. Lee was quite small and Lee Cooper had come for a short while. So, Pepe Jeans emerged as a big denim wear brand. Next is casual shirts. Its rise has been phenomenal in the category. People have experimented with casual shirts from semi-formal to Friday dressing.
Which is the most innovative distribution strategy you introduced?
Between 1999 and 2003, we started a novel concept of shop-in-shop. It was a new concept in the market that time and we introduced it at MBOs. As the brands were not ready to take the risk of independent store commitments, so, we took a dedicated space in MBOs with our furniture’s, modules and display. We put the stocks of 500 pieces and kept refilling it. This concept not only gave us sales but it also added to the brand image.
On an average how much margin do you fix on your sales?
Sales margins are governed by the brands and it varies from brand to brand. With established brands, the margins are moderate but if the brand is new or to be launched then we can expect 5-7 percent margins higher than the established brands. It is a complex formula completely governed by brands and further redesigned by distributors’ at local level. A distributor does his own improvisation on the margins by introducing cash incentives, early payment schemes and shopping shopper schemes to mobilise better payments and better sales.
What are the challenges in distribution business and how did you tackle them?
The biggest challenge is to identify the right channel partner or an MBO partner. There is potential in developing markets, but it takes 2-3 months to get the desired response andin fact, payments go haywire. In my view, retail in India still needs to redefine itself. In order to control such issues, I generally go back to my ABC approach. In our line-of-business 80 percent of sales come from 20 percent of the active MBOs. We concentrate on 20 percent of the core retailers as they do more business and the payment from them is assured, regular and consistent. Moreover, the brand’s image also remains intact as they are happy being presented in a favourable way.
What promotional strategies do you adopt to drive sales?
Our promotional strategies start with the launch of a season. At that time, making a month-by-month promotional strategy is more effective as the market is evolving. For instance, in April we started promotional schemes like buy something and get a gift voucher of some amount that can be redeemed on next purchase, or, buy something and get 20 percent discount. It encourages customer to buy more through indirect discounts. That’s how we make season-to-season promotional schemes.
What kind of financial risks are involved in this business?
Believe me, its a major financial risk the biggest is its stocks. Your payments are not secure. As a distributor you supply to deep-seated parties and they themselves are in pressure to finish off the stocks and inventories. In that case, you really have to push them to clear the payments.
What are your plans for this fiscal?
This financial year we will focus on consolidating our position. We are turning our effort to stabilise the growth trajectory. We will solidify on the brands we have been working with. Moreover, we are expecting to add more international brands to our portfolio.
Any lessons you learnt in this business?
Firstly, always be honest to the brands and your channel partners. Secondly, communicate immediately and open up in case you are facing any challenge or problem; and thirdly keep evolving. This way you may be slow in your growth but it will benefit you in a long run.
Signature Styles by Clint Fernandes, Hair and Make-up Maestro
<p>For Lakmé Fashion Week’s Summer/Resort 2014 shows, award winning make-up and styling artist Clint Fernandes worked backstage with TIGI’s Bed Head and the S Factor product range for shows of Tarun Tahiliani, Rajat Tangri and Shehlaa, Anju Modi and Archana Kocchar.<br /> <br /> Clint Fernandes, Hair and Make-up Expert, adds, “This year, I worked with the TIGI Bed Head and the S Factor range to create the look for various designers, according to the theme of their collection. These products are fantastic! The shampoos and conditioners really helped the models maintain their hair quality! And the styling products come in every format and texture, enabling me to achieve any desired style. I thoroughly enjoyed working backstage with all the stunning models and TIGI products and decoded a few looks for the camera as well.”</p>
Hayley Louise Dack
One look at Hayley Louise Dack and you realise why she was picked by the management of the Imperial Hotel in Delhi to head the Spa section. Serene to look at and armed with a wealth of experience in the business of wellness, Dack packs in a powerful punch. Excerpts from the interview follow:
Education
Dack has over 30 years experience in five star operations with 22 years in the Spa and Wellness industry. In 1992, she studied Spa and Wellness at the Natural Therapies School in Australia and is also a CIDESCO-trained aesthetician. She has done severa lcourses covering Beauty Therapy Aesthetic, Medi Spa Advanced Training, Nutrition, Skin Analysis, Face Mapping, Mesotherapy Advanced, Hair Therapies, Water/ Hydrotherapies, Crystal Healing, Chromatherapy, Mineral make up, Bridal Packages/ preparation for the Bride/Groom and Wedding Party – Wellness and Skin lead up to the Wedding, spa cuisine, among several others. Designing, Implementing, Training Teams on Spa Menus, Training, Product Implementation, techniques and Anti Ageing. The use of food and natural therapies for wellbeing and longevity.
Professional background
Having worked with Four Seasons in Tokyo, Brilliant Hotel Group in China, Lifehouse Wellness Destination Spa, London UK, UK Medi Spa, The Mulia, Luxury Beach Resort, Hotel and Villas in Bali, Dack has managed large teams, operated multi site spas and wellness operations and also handled pre-openings.
Views on the wellness and beauty industry of India
The spa industry is picking up in India. People are becoming aware of the concept of wellness and are willing to spend a lot on it. The younger generation is more conscious of their looks and health and are visiting spas to get their dose of wellness on a regular basis. Spas, too, are offering a variety of services whether they are based on the traditional Indian massages or western ones. The future appears to be bright!
The Imperial experience
Dack is keen to offer 360° wellness solutions to the guest that will put the Spa at The Imperial on the map. Her idea is to create a wellness retreat in the middle of the city, that offers authentic spiritual traditions such as Chakra Balancing, crystal therapy, Balinese, Ayurvedic practices, dosha readings, diet, yoga and meditation and hydrotherapy, to maintain wellness and peace of mind. She wants to combine local therapies with international ones and have some amazing therapies that go a long way in wellness. She has plans to offer healthy spa cuisine matched with personalised spa treatment plans that enable a guest to escape for a few days to help them bring their body, mind and soul back into balance. She is also enthusiastic about working closely with the Ayurvedic doctors to educate the guests on the benefits of this age old traditional therapy.
Ayurveda Therapy Centre Healing from within
Travel back in time to when holy sages enlightened the world of the principles of holistic healing. Following the scriptures, the all-new Ayurveda Centre at The Gateway Hotel Beach Road in Calicut heals and restores your mind and body with the finest rejuvenation treatments with renowned practitioners
Name of the spa: Ayurveda Therapy Centre
Owner/ Founder: Run by The Taj Group of Hotels, the centre is affiliated to the Coimbatore Ayushman Trust of the Coimbatore Arya Vaidya Pharmacy
Time taken to complete the construction: Not disclosed
Brief: The setting is very pleasing with comfortable air conditioning, mild fragrance of pacholi that wafts in the air with cushioned seating for the visitors. The lights are warm and subdued and chants play in the day. There is a consultation room with five spacious therapy rooms, with the latest amenities and the ‘pathy’ Ð a wooden bed on which the oil therapies are given to the client. The chief physician is available all day long.
The centre has been awarded the Green Leaf Award by the Department of Tourism, Government of India for conforming to the standards of Ayurveda and hygiene.
Services available: There are therapy services with yoga and meditation programmes that run from seven to 35 days. Also, therapy is available for various ailments, such as arthritis, spondylitis, migraine, skin disorders, weight loss, multiple sclerosis and more. Beautification therapies for men and women are also there.
Architect’s name and description: Not disclosed
General Manager: Rajani Mohan Sharma, General Manager, Ayurveda Therapy Centre, says, “We offer the best of both worlds, authentic Ayurveda herbal therapy along with star comforts.”
Products used: All internal medication and oils used for therapies are manufactured by the Coimbatore Arya Vaidya Pharmacy, who are leaders in Ayurveda.
Email: gateway.calicut@tajhotels.com
Website: www.tajhotels.com
Pebbles, Mumbai Introduces Mango Dishes
Fine dine restaurant Pebbles at Crystal Plaza, Andheri West, Mumbai has launched mango dishes for the summer season. The restaurant will offer mango dishes such as Kairi Murgh Tikka, Chicken in Green Mango, Mango Menaskai, Shrimp Mango Salad and Tuna Mango Salad.
Mango drinks like Mango Martini, Mango Margarita, Mango Panna and Mango Apple Smoothie will also be available at the restaurant. For dessert, Pebbles is offering Mango Souffle .
According to the company officials, Pebbles specialises in Indian char grilled, coastal and Pan Asian cuisine inspired by the Indian, Thailand, and provincial China recipes.
