Home Beauty & Wellness Skin care trends: What really works

Skin care trends: What really works


Despite rapid changes in global markets, skin care still remains one of the most profitable categories in business with continual growth. There are many trends now,  some that have the potential to endure, while others may be passing fads. Here, you will find a review of the many trends facing the market, the most important ones to watch as well as insight into the most important moneymaking factor to consider for the future: great service.

Skin care continues to be the most profitable categories in business with continual growth

Trend or Fad?
DNA-based skin care
A new study by personal genetics company 23andMe found DNA may dictate how your skin will age. In this study of 350 women of four different ethnicities, it was found that some have a unique genetic fingerprint that keeps them looking young. These have been classified as ‘exceptional skin agers’. This study has garnered great interest as a potential marketing tool for the future. Bottom line: With only four possible formulas thus far, the research and development of this type of technology is still in its infancy, and requires a great deal more high level and costly research.

Gluten-free skin care
According to the Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, gluten cannot be Lydia Sarfatiabsorbed through the skin, therefore individuals with celiac disease should not be concerned about products applied to the hair or skin. The only indication of adverse reaction would be if gluten was allowed to be absorbed through open skin lesions.
Bottom line: Topical application is not an issue, so this marketing approach is a fad, not a true trend.

Vampire facials
With this procedure, platelets are extracted from the client’s own blood to obtain platelet-rich plasma to be re-injected back into the client’s face. Once the red blotches fade, the result is a short period of sculptured puffiness, held to be a mark of glowing good health. While the technique has been used for sport injuries, the evidence of its effectiveness as a beauty product has no major scientific evidence to prove its positive effect or long-term effects. While the American Academy of Dermatology considers the Vampire ‘Face Lift’ to be a safe procedure, it can lead to facial swelling and bruising with the potential for contamination, infection and skin breakdown.
Bottom line: Effective results can be had through proper skin care and aesthetic techniques. This is a fad.

Stem cell skin care
With this technology, it is believed that stem cells will stimulate fibroblast, firm wrinkles and slow the development of new lines. Sources of human stem cells include unfertilised eggs or circumcised infant skin, leading to the development of plant stem cell skin care technology. The reality is that human stem cells cannot survive in a jar and that the results in plant stem cell products are the result of other active skin care
ingredients in the formulation.
Bottom line: There is no known documentation of the result from topical application of stem cells. This is another passing fad.

Gold facials
With this, thin sheets of 24 Karat gold leaf are placed over the face for some time and removed to make the skin luminous, plump and smooth. While reports on this facial go back to the time of Cleopatra, the reality is that gold is unreactive and unable to penetrate the skin. It can be contact reactive, however. In 2001, gold was named the contact allergen of the year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society.
Bottom line: With no evidence of improved skin, expensive gold is being used a marketing ploy aimed at creating a ‘luxurious facial’. The true benefits lie in the ingredients being mixed in with these facial.

Botox and fillers

Botox and fillers are the mainstay of the medi-aesthetic business and the important thing to keep in mind is that the treatment is performed by a reputable plastic surgeon. Dentists and OB-Gyn doctors have been climbing on the band wagon of late, a completely inappropriate practice that can lead to disastrous results. There are also Botox and filler ‘parties’, where a practitioner comes and injects party-goers on the spot. This, too, must be performed in a hygienic room prepared for surgical procedures.

In addition, the physician must make the clients aware of contra-indications as well as potential side-effects before performing the treatments. For Botox, these include pain and bruising, headache, eye swelling, local muscle weakness and lethargy. Filler side-effects include redness, swelling or edema, nodules, abscesses, infection, hyper-pigmentation and the unsightly and improper shift of material within the skin.
Bottom line: This will be a continuing trend, so it is important to address complimentary facial services to grow your business.

Micro needling
With this procedure, multiple needles glide along the skin, penetrating the upper layers of the skin to a depth of upto 2mm to create tiny wounds. Each puncture creates a channel that triggers the body to produce new collagen and elastin. Current devices range from pens to rollers with varying lengths of needles.

According to the FDA, the safe ranges of needle lengths, penetration depths and speeds of the device are unknown, therefore, the FDA has safety concerns regarding the potential for the needles to damage vessels and nerves. In addition, poor needles can lead to breakage of in the skin. Side-effects can include possible irritation, scarring and damage to skin. Some cases have found allergic reactions with using skin care not specifically tested for use with the device.
Bottom line: While micro needling appears to be an ongoing trend, as with any procedure that injures the skin, extreme caution is advised.

Flotation tanks
With flotation tanks, a pool or cabin is filled with 25cm of a supersaturated solution of magnesium salts (Epsom salts), to create conditions similar to the Dead Sea. This allows the body to float effortlessly on the surface of the water – creating the feeling of floating in the air.

The theory is that by floating in this type of space, the mind is free from all external distractions in order to reach deep levels of relaxation and meditation. These have been used to great benefit for athletes, workers and students to accelerate wound healing, improve performance, reduce physical and mental stress, improve mental clarity, energy levels and creativity.
Bottom line: Although still theoretical, this procedure has the potential to be a truly beneficial application to further the spa business.

Real Trends
Facials remain one of the most lucrative practices at the salon and spa. Especially with the advent of the Facial Bar concept, which has express facial treatments employing the most advanced skin care ingredients customised for the individual client’s skin type and schedule. These facials providing intensive results far better than an at-home regimen.

Multi layering
The efficacy of skin care ingredients increases incrementally when used in an entire skin care regimen. The essentials include eye make remover, cleanser, exfoliator, toner, serum, mask, eye cream, moisture and night cream and need to be presented to the client after completion of their professional treatment, yet they do not have to be purchased all at once.

Present the full line, then select the three essential products needed for the client. This relieves them of the burden of a full programme purchase, yet virtually insures they will buy retail products for at-home use until their next treatment. The rule of thumb for retailing in this manner is 50-50 – with 50 per cent of the amount tendered rendered from the professional treatment and 50 per cent from additional retail.

Pore cleansing
Pore cleansing is NYC’s latest lunch break treatment for clear skin, says Harper’s Bazaar. Proper deep cleansing and detoxification of the skin is now considered paramount to not only providing the optimal environment for skin treatment ingredients, but for promoting the health of the skin overall.

Medical alliance
Medical spas, one of the biggest trends, are able to provide many of the same services as day spas in conjunction with more advanced treatments under the supervision of a trained medical staff. These can include Botox and filler injections, chemical peels and laser therapies. The key here is to implement complimentary services to medical procedures, such as offering soothing and calming face masks following procedures or applying relaxing eye treatments prior to numbing agents used for injections.

Custom body treatments
Body care is not one size fits all. For example, cellulite is only exhibited on the buttocks, stomach and inner part of the thigh near the knees, whereas other parts of the body may be dry, dehydrated or in need of deep exfoliation. The trend in using multiple body treatments at once  will continue to grow in the salon business. Clients can have targeted treatments in one area while receiving anti-ageing treatments, hydrating masks or deep cleansing scrubs on other areas such as the legs, back, hands and neck.

Specialty products
Just as younger people are becoming more and more aware of the benefits of healthy eating and proper exercise at an earlier age, the desire for healthy ageing is skewing younger generation, as well. Learning good skin care habits at an early age creates healthier skin for life. To this end, specialty products that not only promote good skin health, but also enhance the quality of life provide an excellent area of growth both in the retail and salon environment.