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Concept to Watch: France


A Modern Bistro with Traditional Cuisine

Four years after the launch of the culinary movement ‘Terroir Parisien’, Yannick Alléno took advantage of the opportunity afforded by the Maison de la Mutualité (Paris), run by GL Events, to open in March 2012 the very first bistro to be called Terroir Parisien. “Getting ‘Terroir Parisien’ off the ground is the culmination of many hours of work. I am very proud to be able to offer a truly Parisian cuisine,” emphasises Chef Yannick Alléno. He has pooled his talents with entrepreneur, Olivier Ginon and architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, and together they have re-established the bistro in modern form. The story starts with the search for and cataloguing of the food producers in the Ile-de-France (the area around Paris) and its all-too-often forgotten produce – peppermint from Milly-La-Forêt, peaches from Montreuil, asparagus from Argenteuil, artichokes from Paris, cabbages from Pointoise, etc. And the practical outcome of all this investigative work is a re-evaluation of revisited Parisian recipes – a gratinée from the Halles, a lamb stew from Morisseau‘s, whiting in white wine sauce à la Bercy, brie de Meaux cheese or the very famous Saint Honoré gâteau. Amongst all these revisited Parisian recipes, Yannick Alléno has also reworked the ‘hot dog’ and transformed it into a ‘hot calf’, one of the beacon recipes of his menu. A crisp bread roll surrounds a calf‘s-head sausage made in-house and served with a gribiche sauce. www.bistrot-terroirparisien.fr
‘Naked’ Enjoys New Impetus
Naked, the tiny 3-unit quick-service network specialising in relatively up-market ‘worldfood’, is set to more than double in size by the end of 2012. Originally founded by British entrepreneurs, Naked is a concept that involves simple, honest food with no preservatives and no artificial colourings or flavourings. The network was bought in 2008 by Thomas Battistini and Thomas Fourneret, both creators, together with Noémi Carrelet (co-founder of Lina‘s Sandwiches) and Elisa Battistini, of the salad-bar concept Jour (20 outlets). Jour Développement has now bought the 6 Aux Pains Perdus stores, located in Paris La Défense, Neuilly and Levallois Perret, with a view to convert them into Naked outlets. Along with another store opened in Boulogne and an 80-seat restaurant launched in July in the brand new Satellite 4 in Terminal 2E at Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport, this should bring the total figure for their portfolio to 9 units. They will all be supplied by Jour Développement‘s production laboratory in La Défense, not far from Paris. The new owners are planning to open 4 new Naked restaurants a year over the next three years. www.nakedfood.fr

‘Eric Kayser’ Comes to Bercy Village
In February 2012, ‘Eric Kayser’ (20 bakeries in France, 100 worldwide) opened their second bakery restaurant in the centre of Bercy Village (Paris 12th arrondissement), amidst old wine stores, now listed as ‘historic monuments’. They operate in part of the premises previously occupied by Club Med World and across around 350 sq m are able to serve more than 100 covers at a time, including partly bakery and sandwiches, partly restaurant service. They also have a bar and a terrace capable of accommodating 50 people. Jean Imbert, Chef and Proprietor of the Acajou restaurant (Paris 16th arrondissement) personally supervised the creation of the menu, which is produced by Taleb Daher in the kitchen. Born into a family of bakers, he is an artisan who uses natural yeasts and selected flours. The bread is kneaded and baked on site. With the new space, Eric Kayser provides a reaffirmation that a traditional bakery can indeed serve the needs of the fast food and snacks segment. A particular type of bread is associated with each dish – bread with turmeric, walnuts and hazelnuts for the sautéed shrimps, olive bread for the lamb casserole. There is something on the menu for all times of the day; there are set breakfasts (€7.80-8.00), brunches for Sundays (€25), lunches with salads, sandwiches and small hot dishes from €14.90. www.maison-kayser.com